Hiya...Speaking Abroad (#1)

Well, I've already mentioned that people here are a bit quieter than at home. Clearly, some of us stick out like a sore thumb as we saunter through town shouting to each other (yes, even though it may be your normal speaking volume, it sounds like shouting when compared with the locals--check out their stares, YOU ARE LOUD). I smile without actually speaking more as a hello or a thank you here because I am sometimes afraid of what octave might arise out of my throat--and certainly I don't want to be one of those people. :)

Most interesting to me is the responses I get when purchasing items in shops, especially gift shops at tourist attractions. Before the transaction is even complete, I am being thanked. I hand over what I want to buy. "Thank you," the cashier chimes with a curt nod. I feel bizarre saying 'you're welcome', so when he/she has finished ringing me up, I take my bag and say, "Thank you." Well, of course, I get a "Thank you" in return. It is endless and hilarious and I know of no way to stop it except to leave with a smile.

"Cheers" is another favorite expression. Used almost everywhere in the UK, it may mean just about whatever you would like. Personally, I like sitting on the trains (as I've said before) and watching the refreshment cart make its way down the aisle. Maybe it is because it reminds me of Harry Potter extracting his gold coins and chiming, "We'll take the lot!" As much as I might be tempted to say that, I remind myself that it is simply packaged food and pop so I haven't bought anything off the "trolley" just yet. Still, it is fun to watch the man or woman selling snacks slide down the aisle saying "cheers" to anyone who buys anything, or simply gets out of his or her way so the aisle may be cleared for sales.


My favorite local use of language incorporates "cheers" into a different expression: "Cheers, love." This lovely and warming expression was bestowed upon my ears as I exited our tour bus in London; these words from the bus driver's mouth made me feel like we were very good friends for just a moment. I know the use of the word "love" as a person is a very generic term here, but I can't help but find it extremely pleasant. It is much more appealing than the American "sweetie" or "honey" which can feel patronizing at times, depending on who is speaking and how they are used. Perhaps some Brits feel the same way about "love" but it just doesn't seem to carry that sentiment---it just seems friendly.

In general, people here are very polite in their manner of speaking. Body language and tone convey attitudes of annoyance much more accurately, but their actual choice of words doesn't reveal anything except polite words. At home, I feel like the accepted and traditional way to speak in public is to be polite but we are losing that more and more every day. I notice even in the things I hear my teenage students say in front of me or walking in the halls with their friends at school, that I wouldn't have dared to say near adults when I was their age. They curse a lot more, and don't seem to have learned the difference between how to speak to adults or out in public and with their friends in private. This translates to adults in American culture also speaking with less refinement and manners, too. For the most part, the British seem to still value manners in speaking more than we do. Even still, I can see the change happening here, too. At Sherwood Forest, for example, there were some British teens visiting the site as well; one girl was mad at her mother and was cursing loudly at her. The mother did admonish her for her use of language but you could see that this was not the first time the girl had chosen these words. Robin Hood would be appalled at a child speaking to her mother this way! It is not only a cultural thing but also a generational thing---look at how the speech in television and film has incorporated more and more strong language (cursing) as a natural part of daily speech. So, while manners in speech might have lost their way faster in America, they are changing a bit everywhere because of global media influence. The attitude just seems to be, "So what? I don't care what anyone thinks. I will talk how I want!" Very ego-centric; but I think it's mostly because no one has really taught them anything else. I understand it, but it still bothers me--I think words are so important and we are thinking less and less as a culture about what words mean and how they make us sound when we speak. People need to think more and speak less sometimes. That's why writing is so nice...it makes you see what you are saying.





(random side note: At least we finally have a President who can speak well again--the last 8 years were torture for those of us who care about words!)

Class...What Class? (#7)

Since we have arrived, we have done nothing but acquire knowledge. Just by watching people in the airport, or a train station, you can gain an immense amount of knowledge about the culture and attitudes that surround you. So much of this experience involves just being here and being a part of the culture so that you might become absorbed into a bit and more aware of your natural inclinations, whether they match or contrast with the local behavior. So, when I say 'What Class?' it is not for lack of instructional time; all of our time here is instructional time. While we do have "class" and discuss the stories and theories we have read about, it is very comfortable and open, and it really wouldn't be as meaningful if we wouldn't venture out of "the classroom" into the moors, the towns, the abbeys and the forests. We are learning the mannerisms of a culture: the way people communicate, what they consider proper etiquette in public, and what they consider important to their culture and to life. People in all of the UK truly value their history. Not only tour guides at museums and other tourist sites, but even local cab drivers or pub bartenders are happy to tell you stories of the town you are in, including fascinating details about the buildings, owners of shops, and famous people who once lived there. They appreciate and are proud of where they live and want to pass it on.

Knowledge acquired directly from a person can be extremely interesting. It differs from the experience of hearing it from a teacher in a typical classroom in the States because you are here. You trust the authority of the cabbie telling you about Isaac Newton because as he tells you the famed man lived here, you speed by a restaurant in the middle of the country with an apple on its sign that's named for him. When a tour guide talks to you about Bill Clinton smoking pot, it differs from the newscaster at home. It isn't a scandal, but simply a funny local story to mention as you stroll past the Oxford house Clinton resided in at the time (see right) of the supposed smoking.

In addition to guides and stories, you simply must get out and see it for yourself and become part of landscape, the tales and the people. Hiking the moors in Yorkshire puts you in the experience of the Brontes and their characters, just as bounding through Sherwood Forest gives you a slice of hanging out as Robin Hood might have. And all the book copies you possess with the famous names of Lewis Carroll, Geoffrey Chaucer, Lord Byron, George Eliot and so on cannot compare to striding past their stone slab tomb markers inside of Westminster Abbey in London. Don't forget that Queen Elizabeth I and numerous other English monachs elaborate tombs are also within these walls--these kings and queens truly did exist; they are no longer just names in a history book.

I've learned to appreciate the culture and the history that surrounds it. At home, I feel too many people are losing the history, their own history, of where they live and along with it they lose a sense of the importance of the past and all the greatness that came before them. I am fortunate to have a family who loves to tell stories and I value that. I always knew that stories play a huge role in learning and understanding, but not until I was here did I realize that I may have underestimated the role of telling tales. The locals here seem to realize that everything should be passed on--there is no significance or insignificance for you never know whose interest you might peak, what important connection might be made or how that knowledge may affect the future understanding of the space in which you stand or the people who stand there. While I may not previously have a personal connection to spaces here in the UK simply being here and taking it all in through my senses allows those histories and stories to come to life in me, too. For example, I knew nothing of Edinburgh Castle before visiting (see left), but standing near the cannons and walking through and in the space made the stories of battles and monarchs real to me. I am taking this important realization back to my classroom. While I have always noticed students' interest in stories that connect to their assignments, I never realized what large a role I might play in their understanding and interest in their local culture. In telling them about George Remus and his swimming pool or his bootlegging operation (5-10 minutes from where they live) when we study The Great Gatsby or explaining why we have The Underground Railroad Museum in Cincinnati when we read To Kill a Mockingbird (sad, most of them have no idea why) I am not only helping them understand their novels, but helping them appreciate or at least know their culture and history. Now if I can just get them to experience some of the culture also, not just hear it from me but really put them in the space around them, that would really make the learning more relevant and real to them.

"I Don't Need Your Attitude. I Already Have One" (#6)

Or so the gift shop magnet read...at one of the gazillion or so shops in London, or maybe it was Warwick; I'm losing perspective. What I have not lost perspective of, however, is the way different groups of people behave--be it locals in a pub or hotel, or other tourists at a main attraction. And attitudes mean the world...so relax and enjoy yourself.

In general, the service staff in restaurants is extremely pleasant--regardless of whether a service charge is included in the bill or not. A very congenial man named Alan made our dining experience at Ebury's in London an absolute delight. He was popping over occasionally to ask "what else we wanted" (he was quite the salesman) and he had no problems teasing us after we ate dessert when he saw us spying another, saying, "Now you've had yours already," with a chuckle, "but you could have had that one!" He never rushed us; we sat and had several leisurely courses, with plenty of time to talk, eat and drink. I've noticed in general that all service staff here are polite about allowing you to enjoy the food and take your time rather than the typical American rushed service with a check dropped annoyingly before you've finished eating. Even though our wallets may be lighter after a meal that takes a few hours vs. a few minutes, we are ultimately happier and more satisfied with the experience. The word 'experience' being the key word here: McDonalds or Starbucks--fast, rushed and isolated--is not an experience; choosing a variety of food and wine to be shared and enjoyed with family or friends involves a social interaction which creates an experience. Alan even brought us some complimentary truffles to eat while we drank our coffee, which he said were only for special customers; he seemed to go out of his way to make our experience pleasant and comfortable, treating us more like friends than like business.

So...an A+ for restaurants and pubs we've experienced so far. Hotel staff is a bit different. Our hotel in London seemed like they wanted to please but didn't always follow through. While the concierge was extremely pleasant as he took us to the reception desk, the scowl from the woman behind the desk confirmed she wasn't really in the mood to serve. As she checked us in at reception, she was short with us about our reservations ("that room is already taken") and didn't seem interested to learn that we were meeting up with my parents who had already checked us in. It certainly did not feel like "the customer is always right" attitude that I have been used to at American hotels--there was very little patience and definite annoyance about our trying to clarify the situation. While she may have said, "Sorry about your wait," that didn't really communicate what we wanted to hear (since we hadn't really waited but rather just hadn't been listened to at all) when we finally got our room key. No sympathy or smile whatsoever. Extremely irritating--don't even get me started on how we didn't receive the message waiting for us at the reception desk describing where we were supposed to meet my parents upon checking in (until they requested it sent to them two and half hours after we arrived!). It thoroughly confused me on who was supposed to be right and who was wrong--was it really a chore for reception to listen or give us a message? Were we supposed to be more prepared than that in a foreign city? But...alas, we were in their hands, so we just had to be patient and deal--at least the lobby was nice to look at while you waited.

Tourists anywhere are usually plain annoying: taking up large amounts of space, stopping in front of your walking path to take a picture of something and, in general, just not getting how things work. I find myself trying to be a tourist and yet not seem too touristy. I try to take pictures quickly, sometimes even as I am moving, to not interrupt the daily flow of traffic in the city (usually some of my most fun are my spontaneous quick snaps--see left). I also try to follow the guides inconspicuously, asking a question of a guide if it seems convenient, but mostly trying to just experience things on my own and follow the rules, signs and plans laid out for tourists. I really was annoyed at Warwick Castle when these French girls kept going backwards on the Steep Stair Walking Tour, ignoring the numerous signs of "One Way" and "Do not enter!" They were not only breaking the general flow, but they were obstructing the ability of others to complete the tour effectively (these steps and passages were barely wide enough for a person; there was a definite reason for the one way)--they didn't seem to be embarrassed or bothered at all by their disregard for the rules. I have accepted the fact that many people will cluster together, smush by your side, and "cut" you in line to see what they want to see at main tourist sights--there is no easy fix for that; there are just too many people who are too anxious to see whatever church, tomb or castle relic might be there so you just have to be patient. I do find myself breaking free of the crowd whenever possible, though, and foregoing a prolonged "close encounter" so that I might just breathe and not have 5 strangers sweating upon me. I also would sacrifice my spot in line to let families stay together because I remember being young and touring sites and the truly intimidating feeling of being surrounded by strangers and not knowing just where mom or dad may be--and it is easy to get separated in the large jostling crowds.

My biggest insights are probably not that insightful...be patient, look around, and follow the crowd. Enjoy the time you have despite any negative experiences that arise. Appreciate the good service, good food and time you are given to just be. Go stop in The National Gallery on your random free hour and see some Van Gogh--we did and it was fantastic--or step outside to browse the sidewalk artists who sit all day and constantly create on a whim of inspiration--absolutely, Mary Poppins! Time seems of less consequence here--except if you are trying to catch a train...but there will always be another, so enjoy yourself and experience something. No rushing please :)

Bored Byron (Newstead Abbey Reflection)

Poor Byron. Living in the lap of luxury in a grand manner, surrounded by plush gardens and grounds. Actually, though, I can kind of see his point. Upon entering the grounds of Newstead Abbey, you can't help but be amazed by the splendor of the gothic architecture and extensive detailing in the gardens. However, for a person like Byron, who enjoyed the company of others to an extreme, it probably would get a little lonely on the isolated grounds. Or maybe it was just the scary gothic face that greeted him at his own front door every day. The formality and solemnity that you feel as you walk through the main house makes you feel as if you should tiptoe and whisper--somehow I don't see Byron being one to tiptoe through anything (just look at his clothes!). A prevailing feeling of darkness seems to almost suffocate you throughout most of the interior. Cold stone is only occasionally interrupted by warmer wood paneling--but the haunting gothic is everywhere, literally reaching out of the wall even to give you much needed light. The Abbey is a place that has been ripped apart by disputes of the Catholic church and Henry VIII and haunted by "the Black Monk"--a far cry from the Happiest Place on Earth!

The gardens in contrast offer a peaceful and more open, comfortable place to wander about with your thoughts--they do make you appreciate nature, so it is obvious why Byron may have become reflective here and wrote about his "Oak Tree" and also wanted his beloved dog, Boatswain, to remain in a tomb outdoors (see left) in one of the gardens versus anywhere in the Abbey. Even the gardens, though, are quite structured and more formal (English garden right) than the wild landscapes of Scotland that Byron so desires in his poems. Overall, the place would have been too repressive for Byron, who needed life and wildness to satiate his journeying mentality. Even the gift shop was a bit boring--little English trinkets from here and there (a variety of authors) but it could have been a lot more interesting by embracing the wild side of Byron and having more things with his funny quotes on them rather than just bookmarks of famous English authors and whatnot.

Newstead is much more formal and repressed than Sherwood Forest or the Yorkshire moors; clearly the authors were influenced by the settings around them. Although all seemed to desire the wild and free, Byron seems to be the most affected and the most unhappy by his living circumstances. He is the only one to truly leave and abandon entirely his true place of residence, seemingly without much remorse--he calls it only a "pile" upon returning to see its deterioration. The Brontes seem to accept more of a balance between life in the wild and life in their "civilized" homes; Emily has her "wild" characters return to a house at the end of Wuthering Heights, suggesting the two can mesh together successfully. Even in the tales of Robin Hood, Robin regularly ventures to town to have a little fun with the locals (including the Sheriff of Nottingham), but he doesn't seem to bear so dark an attitude as Byron, who seems to find Newstead a place of death and suffering, regarding his former place of residence. For a brief moment, I felt his torture behind a gated garden. Similarly, though, all the stories project an appreciation for the wild and freedom of nature--each author preferred the wild and felt more at home there than in an indoor structure; after my visit to Newstead, I must say that I was much more comfortable and at ease with my thoughts in the exterior landscapes of the gardens--my favorite of which was actually the more modern Japanese garden that I could actually interact with on stepping stones. I guess I, too, sing Freedom!

Photo Story: Sherwood and Nottingham

In exploring the various time periods and cultural mindsets of our literature in the course, it was fun to try to find visual representations today while we explored Sherwood and Nottingham. Here is what I found:

Picturesque: the beautiful and classic landscapes





In Sherwood, I was particularly drawn to compositions that contained paths and light (left and bottom right); in Nottingham, the brilliant flowers (top right).

















The Romantic: beautiful and melancholy

Decaying trees in the forest were surrounded by other life which I found sad, but comforting. I much preferred the weeds growing out of the stones lining the path to Nottingham Castle. They simply struck me as beautiful, bright and soft even though they are technically viewed as "unwanted" growth.










The Sublime: uplifting and spiritually awe-inspiring
















Again, I was drawn to the light in the woods and how it played upon the massive trees. One tree in particular struck me as a sentinel to the heavens--I couldn't comprehend the trickling pattern of light and shadow; all I could do was wonder at its beauty and power, and assume that the light was coming from the divine. He seemed to have arms reaching out, both guarding and separating the forest from the skies.




The Modern: contrasting images that call up new interpretations and relationships in the world

The empty beer can abandoned in the tranquil woods--I couldn't think of a better image that shows how man has destroyed nature: literally polluting the natural with our self-serving ways (no, it was not mine!).












Also, the view from the dark, safe and natural wood into the stark and obvious contrast of a modern housing development.
Lastly, a few trees had been carved and manipulated into new art--it shows the functionality of the landscape and potential for re-inventing old forms.

Robin's Hood (a.k.a. Sherwood Forest )

Just to say "I'm going to Sherwood Forest today" sounds a bit fanciful, like "I'm going to the moon today." It conjures up images of men running around in green tights, arrows flying past your head and carts selling the "wares" of the day bumbling and jingling over dirt paths. In reality, Sherwood is no more these things than the moon is made of cheese (but it is still nice to imagine the flavor).




The museum was quite bi-polar its focus, a bit of fun and a bit educational, which clearly was geared toward children. Maybe bi-polar is a bad way to think of it: maybe it's more like 'you can eat dessert, but need your veggies, too'. The first part has the interactive walking through the scenes and history of the tales--my only wish is that there was a canal of water and small boats that took you through, a la "It's a Small World" (that would fully Disney-fy the experience). I particularly enjoyed the digestive sounds you could hear after you made a Merry man eat a certain wooded plant ("Mmmm..."--very Homer Simpson, or, "blekkk, ugk, ugk"--heard if what you ate killed you)! After dessert, the museum fills you with veggies (very Robin Hood--fun first, then business): you walk through a scientific exploration of the Forest, learning about the different flora and fauna--not really my thing; I get why it's there, but I like dessert better. I guess it is important to science and some people like that, but who really is reading Robin Hood as a biology text book?

The gift shop, however, gets you back to the fanciful so that you aren't totally annoyed that someone made you eat vegetables. It is filled with costumes and stuffed animal versions of the characters as well as all kinds of "weapons" and trinkets to get your brain back to the idea that you are, indeed, on the moon and it is time to sample the cheese! Very satisfactory on the whole.

Sherwood Forest puts you right into the stories. You feel healthy and alive walking through the calm woods surrounded by trees that are several hundred years old. It helps you imagine that a story like this could have actually happened amongst these trees. I particularly enjoyed trees that had become hollowed out with age; I could imagine them as hiding places for Robin and his buddies when the evil Sheriff's men were riding about hunting them down. Sadly, I did not hear any hoofbeats while I leisurely crept about the paths, but I could feel nature protecting me all the same. Walking around solo gave me the true feeling of not only exploring and serenity, but I knew I was on my own and had to fend for myself if anything were to happen. Even though nothing did, it put me in the independent mindset of a man who has been exiled from town and now must figure out how to care for himself away from all that he knows.
On the whole, Sherwood was an enjoyable trip. For a lover of the stories, I recommend the dessert that lets you have the fun of being a part of the stories, and don't worry about veg--mom will forgive you just this once!

I'm a newbie here, please forgive me! (#4)

Everyday I spend here, I seem to learn something new--these are both pleasant and unpleasant experiences. For example, "service" is often included--it's nice for those who hate math and struggle to figure out how much to tip; however, it is a difficult habit to break when you are used to shelling out extra $ as a thank you. We learned the mistake of tipping one of our first nights here; it is such a foreign idea to think that someone would be offended by you giving them extra money for their service, but the stares you will receive upon dropping that extra pound on the counter strike immediate and confusing guilt in your heart. I had never considered that a tip could be viewed as a snob giving away charity---yikes! A pleasant surprise has been travel by train: I absolutely LOVE it! I was a bit nervous about how all the boarding and ticketing worked the first time, but I truly enjoy the ease of hopping up without crazy security staring you down (like in airports) and find myself much more relaxed and comfortable to watch the countryside whoosh by me as I eat, read or listen to my ipod--I have no problems falling asleep feeling totally safe and knowing that a pleasant announcement over the intercom will announce the next stop. Hostels, on the other hand, get mixed reviews in my book. If I am in a room with all people I know, I have decided they are just fine--no different than a sleepover of sorts. The concept of being a room mixed with any kind of stranger--be it man, woman, child or the occasional "uncertain"--quickens the pace of my heart and makes me sweat. In Edinburgh, for example, I literally felt feverish trying to fall asleep in a "mixed" room; I felt like I was in a horror film, afraid of everything that could be in my bedding, and everyone who might be after me in my own room or the hostel itself. I refused to take off my long-sleeved pullover for fear of what might touch my skin, even though I also felt I was dying of heat and thirst. I have decided that it is no wonder Americans don't really buy the whole hostel idea; we are much more self-indulgent with our hotel rooms for the individual, and I have realized that I'm ok with indulgence in this respect!

How do I deal with all of this new, you ask? Well, that's easy. You just deal. I felt bad about the tipping insult, but didn't want to offend more by continuing to apologize or discuss it. At home, I most certainly apologize profusely and try to explain myself if I feel I have made a mistake--I'm not sure why I didn't do the same here; I guess I just felt so out of my element I wasn't sure of the right course of action. At home, as far as travel, we just don't have as many exciting options. Usually, I stick to what I know--cars--because they are always available. We just don't branch out with our modes of transportation as much. I truly wish we had a similar train system, though! In general, at home I feel I ask more questions about new things that come into my life and I am not embarrassed to do so. Here, I feel awkward asking sometimes, as if someone will be annoyed with me not knowing in the first place. (I am pretty sure a street vendor in Edinburgh was thoroughly bothered, and said as much, when one in our group asked if there was a street market that day--we still don't know if it was just because it was Sunday or not.) So, I cling to the group a bit more here than I would normally; it just feels safer in numbers and, if we all make the same mistakes, I don't feel so bad.

Being surrounded by a totally new culture and customs, I find myself much more shy than normal, which totally surprises me. I rarely feel this way so it is somewhat uncomfortable at times. It makes me more aware of how visitors to America must feel at times, not knowing the unspoken rules we take for granted. On a smaller scale, it gives me a perspective on students who are new to my classroom or the school in general, and how scary or awkward it might be for some of them. This experience is making me really lean on my observational skills so that I might accept the new and surprising things that appear with more grace. Being open-minded and able to adapt is definitely a life-skill! My goal is definitely to avoid insulting any more locals and to learn more about cultural norms prior to engaging in them.